28+ – seasonal wonderful tastes
If you combine high class seasonal produce, great wine, many years of hard work, authentic cooking, passion for cheese and a lot of taste you get 28+. Fortunate for us, in 1985 Patron Ulf Johansson missed a place to go after the theatre to enjoy cheese, wine and some good food and therefore started the restaurant.
The cooking is neither conservative nor experimental, but genuine cooking with clear full balanced tastes. Head Chef Hans Borén is developing the menu continuously according to season, five to seven courses are changed every month. The focus is on quality first and if possible local, but with no compromise on quality. So in October you might find locally caught lobster and French pigeons on the menu, while a month later the pigeon will have been replaced with Swedish reindeer.
28+ is situated in the centre of Gothenburg in a basement. The interior is warm with white washed walls and candles lit throughout the restaurant. The decoration is simple with some nice touches such as a wonderful old cheese display in marble and glass.
A glass of champagne is always a great aperitif; the high acid will get the taste buds going. A great idea, not only for the taste, but also as it makes you focus on the meal. There are two tasting menus to choose from, a five-course or a seven-course, you can also choose the dishes individually from the à la carte. It is a very seasonal and balanced menu with produce from the ocean, lakes, forests and farms. There are matching wine menus, either you go for the standard or for the serious taster there is a more exclusive pairing. Swedish food usually has a good level of acid which pairs better with old world wines, this is also reflected in the selection of wines. Ulf Johansson and Nick Jobe work together on developing the cellar and currently there is a selection of almost 1,100 wines.
Some wonderful matches you can find during lobster season are lobster tail and a chicken and ox stock based lobster bisque which merge perfectly with an oaked chardonnay. Another excellent match is pigeon with Arabica sauce, some truffle polenta and just enough Brussels sprout leaves and a great ripasso from Montecorna. In Gothenburg the local humour is to play with words, so a cod with cauliflower medley will of course be matched with both taste and word with a Beaujolais from Fleurie! One thing to not miss at 28+ is the cheese; the name itself comes from the fat percentage in some cheeses. It is here you also understand that quality comes first, almost all cheeses are French. There exist some interesting Swedish cheese, but if you know your cheese they are still a long way behind the best French ones.
Too often in Sweden the quality of desserts is subpar. As the restaurants are smaller and salaries are high the restaurants usually do not have a Chef de Patisserie nor a Head Chef with enough experience of desserts. At 28+ the desserts are a pleasant surprise, how about a blackberry medley with an anis aftertaste from a mousse rolled in pain d´épices. Chocolate and port is a safe combination, but at 28+ they will develop this classic further by example having a 1947 Banuyls and a chocolate mousse savarin with calvados icecream and apple tapioca. To round off an excellent meal you will find a well chosen selection of coffee and teas.
28+ is a restaurant you return to. Hans Borén and his crew always deliver a delicious seasonal meal and Ulf Johansson and his team a professional service.
28+ scored 79 points of 100 points in our rating system. View our Top 60 of the world. Back to the reviews.
411 34 Gothenburg
Phone: +46 31 20 21 61