Despite the fact that there might be different opinions out there, we have to confess that we truly love San Francisco. This vibrant city, with its rolling hills and breathtaking bay, has a unique charm. It is here, in this remarkable setting, that chef Suzette Gresham founded her exceptional restaurant Acquerello already decades ago. Using the finest ingredients, she creates mouthwatering Italian dishes that strike the perfect balance between honoring traditional flavors and incorporating contemporary touches to keep them exciting.
Concept & location
Acquerello can be considered to be one of the cornerstones of San Francisco’s fine dining scene, with a rich history dating back all the way to 1989. Situated between Van Ness and Polk, this elegant restaurant occupies a building that has seen a significant evolution over the years. Originally built in the 1920s by the renowned architect Julia Morgan, the space has undergone numerous transformations, from a fish store to a beauty salon, before finding its true calling as the wonderful restaurant it is today.
The building’s unique architectural features, such as the beautiful wooden arches etched in gold, remain a testament to Morgan’s timeless design and add an element of historic grandeur to the dining experience. From the very beginning, Acquerello’s guiding philosophy has been “simple elegance,” capturing the essence of Italian culture in its purest form. Although the chef humbly refrains from labeling the restaurant as fine dining, Acquerello’s commitment to showcasing the best of Italian cuisine through exceptional food, wine, and service undeniably places it in the fine dining category in our opinion. The restaurant has in that perspective also been recognized by the Michelin Guide and received two Michelin Stars. Meticulous attention to detail that is applied to every aspect of the dining experience. From the moment guests step through the door, they are greeted warmly by a hostess who knows them by name. The staff is fully briefed on guests’ preferences and dietary restrictions, ensuring a personalized and thoughtful experience.
The Chef & the team
Behind the stove of Acquerello, we find Chef Suzette Gresham. Suzette’s journey to become a chef intertwined with her heritage. Raised in a family that had roots in French cuisine, she was unaware that her ancestors had been chefs until after she expressed her desire to pursue the profession to her parents. Although her family had left behind that life for a fresh start in America and they could initially not understand that Gresham wanted to go back to it, young Suzette was convinced that her passion for cooking was, in her blood.
During her journey to become the chef she is today, there was the important mentorship from a notable Italian chef, Carmine Maffei, at an unexpected venue: United Airlines. Despite the unusual setting, Maffei imparted invaluable lessons, such as his famous advice, “You cannot cook with bullshit,” which emphasized the importance of focusing on the essentials of food and disregarding unnecessary distractions. This lesson became a guiding principle for Suzette, helping her navigate the complexities of the culinary world with a clear focus on quality and authenticity. Through apprenticeships and early professional experiences, Suzette embraced the traditional European model of training, which involved being “indentured” to a kitchen for several years. This intense period of learning shaped her approach to the craft and laid the groundwork for her later successes. By the 1980s, a time when women were still a rarity in professional kitchens, Gresham had established herself as a force to be reckoned with. Suzette’s real breakthrough came when she became the executive chef at Donatello in San Francisco, a role that she earned through her skillful, soulful cooking and a genuine approach to learning from the established practices of the restaurant before suggesting any changes. It was a pivotal moment in her career, one that aligned her with Giancarlo, the general manager, whose guest-centric philosophy resonated deeply with her own values. Together, they made an exceptional team, despite their different backgrounds, he, a tall Italian man and she a short American woman. Their shared commitment to providing an extraordinary dining experience laid the foundation for their success.
Throughout their career, Chef Suzette and General Manager Giancarlo continually reimagined their restaurant Acquerello, adapting to changing trends and growing demand. Their collaboration resulted in notable milestones, such as their recognition by Wine Spectator in 1997 as the second-best Italian restaurant in the U.S., behind Valentino’s in Los Angeles. This acknowledgment prompted them to expand their space, refine their menu, and curate an extensive wine list, which has since grown to over 100 pages. The kitchen team consists of fourteen people and is very international. That mix of cultures is something Gresham strives for and is very proud of.
Gastronomy / Cooking Style
At Acquerello, the culinary philosophy centers around a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. Chef Gresham articulates the dining experience as “simple elegance,” with an unwavering focus on creating dishes that resonate with every guest. Whether you chose the menu option, or you eat à la carte, you can expect a journey through authentic Italian flavors, innovatively interpreted for the modern palate. The culinary style at Acquerello is best described as “grounded Italian with innovation.” Gresham and her team anchor their dishes in Italian tradition but are unafraid to push boundaries. This innovative approach allows them to explore new ingredients and techniques, ensuring that their dishes are both familiar and surprising. The idea of “crudo,” for instance, may be interpreted with unexpected ingredients, maintaining the essence while offering a fresh perspective. The menu undergoes continuous evolution, driven by seasonal changes and a desire to maintain balance across dishes. The creative force behind the dishes is Chef de Cuisine Seth, who, alongside Chef Suzette, brings fresh ideas to life. Their collaborative process ensures that every dish is carefully considered, from its flavor profile to its visual appeal and guest experience.
At Acquerello, creativity is a collaborative endeavor. Once Seth develops a dish, it undergoes a rigorous review process. The first level of feedback comes from Chef Gresham and General Manager Giancarlo, who assess the dish for flavor, concept, and “Italianness.” However, the most important aspect is always whether the dish is delicious. The analysis doesn’t stop there; the wine team also evaluates the dish to ensure it pairs well with the restaurant’s carefully curated wine selection. This teamwork extends beyond the kitchen to the front-of-house staff, who provide crucial feedback based on guest experiences. Every detail, from the texture of a dish to its portion size, is scrutinized to enhance the dining experience. This level of attentiveness even extends to observing what comes back on the plates.
Gresham and her team are fortunate to be in San Francisco, a region known for its bountiful access to high-quality ingredients. From cheeses in the north to fresh fish from the bay and nearby ocean, the restaurant has access to a vast array of local products. Seth, a regular at the farmers market, ensures that the restaurant supports small farmers and brings the best of the season to the table. However, the unpredictability of sourcing from farmers markets means that the kitchen must remain flexible and ready to adapt. Despite the emphasis on local sourcing, the restaurant remains committed to delivering an authentic Italian experience.
Many of the oils, vinegars, and other key ingredients are imported directly from Italy, ensuring that the essence of Italian cuisine is always present in every dish. Every element, from desserts to pastas, meats to fish, is meticulously prepared in-house, with the exception of the bread. The kitchen team handles everything, including gluten-free modifications and allergy accommodations, ensuring that each guest has a tailored experience.
Service & Wine
The service philosophy at Acquerello is simple: “Sit back and relax.” Guests are encouraged to trust the team and let them guide the experience. Chef Suzette emphasizes the importance of open communication with guests, what they want, what they don’t want, so that the team can tailor the service to meet their expectations. The atmosphere is designed to be a balance between relaxation and formality, allowing guests to feel comfortable while still enjoying a refined dining experience. We were impressed by the focus on each and every detail of the service and could not catch the team on one single flaw.
Wine is an integral part of the dining experience at Acquerello, and Wine Director Gianpaolo Paterlini has done an exceptional job curating a world-class selection. The restaurant holds a prestigious Grand Award from Wine Spectator, a testament to the depth and quality of its wine program. The wine list is predominantly Italian, representing every region of the country. This focus on Italian wines has been a defining characteristic of the restaurant since it first opened. Over the years, the restaurant has expanded its wine offerings to meet guest demands, including the addition of French Champagnes. However, the core philosophy remains unchanged: to provide guests with an authentic Italian experience, which cannot be fully realized without the perfect Italian wine pairing.
Why go?
We can keep this very simple. If you’re looking to enjoy some of the finest Italian cuisine, crafted with exceptional ingredients, perfectly balancing traditional flavors with contemporary twists, all in an elegant setting that embodies the spirit of Italy, with impeccable service to match, then Acquerello is your place to go. We truly love this restaurant.
Practical
Acquerello
1722 Sacramento Street
Between Van Ness & Polk
San Francisco
CA 94109
United States