On Vulcano, a small Island in front of the coast of Sicily, we found the stunning Therasia Resort Sea & Spa. If you are not blown away by the gorgeous Aeolian architecture and the unique sea views, then maybe the fact that within the same property there are two restaurants that have a Michelin Star and a Green Michelin Star, might do the job ! One of these restaurants is I Tenerumi, where Chef Davide Guidara serves a plant based menu consisting of 21 creative dishes that let vegetables and fruits shine in a truly remarkable and delectable way.
Concept & location
When you travel to Vulcano, upon arrival you notice immediately that you have arrived at a unique destination that combines the majesty of a volcano with the serenity of the sea. The surrounding area of Therasia Resort Sea & Spa is a seasonal haven. During winter, the population on the island drops to around four hundred residents, while in summer it swells to more than five thousand people, primarily tourists. The island features a mix of hotels, restaurants, and bars, yet retains a sense of exclusivity and charm. While most establishments lean toward casual Mediterranean dining, the resort stands out with its diverse culinary offerings, including two Michelin-starred restaurants. This distinction is rare within the archipelago, where only one other Michelin-starred restaurant exists on the neighboring island of Salina.
The concept of the restaurant is deeply rooted in nature. It offers an open-air dining experience with breathtaking views, fully embracing a vegetable-forward philosophy. Inspired by a vision of picnics in the garden and a desire to create a professional yet relaxed ambiance, the restaurant combines fine dining with an inviting atmosphere. The design and service are intentionally unpretentious. This goal is reflected in every aspect of the dining experience. Guests are even encouraged to remove their shoes and connect with the earth, emphasizing freedom and comfort. This unique practice underscores the restaurant’s commitment to creating an environment where diners can relax and enjoy themselves without the usual pressures of fine dining. The inspiration for this approach came from the chef’s own experience in a three-Michelin-starred restaurant where the atmosphere felt overly rigid and unwelcoming. Determined to redefine this narrative, I Tenerumi is a space of joy, spontaneity, and connection.
Diners can choose between the chef’s counter or the outdoor seating area when making their reservation. Both options offer the same meticulously crafted menu, ensuring consistency in the culinary experience. The chef’s counter provides an intimate, adrenaline-filled interaction with the kitchen, while the outdoor seating emphasizes the open-air freedom and stunning views. Regardless of the choice, the restaurant’s philosophy of blending exceptional cuisine with a relaxed ambiance shines through. That cuisine is almost completely plant-based. Except for some yoghurt, the entire menu consists of vegetables, fruits and herbs that are truly Sicilian. The exceptional environment provides ideal conditions for cultivating extraordinary vegetables. The farm on property produces a large part of the vegetables served at the restaurant, ensuring an unparalleled farm-to-table experience. Remarkably, some tomatoes even acquire a natural saltiness from the soil, a testament to the unique terroir and a perfect fit for one of the chef’s signature dishes.
The Chef & the team
That Chef is Davide Guidara. Guidara was born in 1994 and from an early age, Davide had an unwavering sense of purpose, even though he doesn’t recall the precise moment it began. According to his mother, at just nine years old, he came home from school and announced with conviction that he wanted to become a chef. While other children dreamt of becoming astronauts or pursuing other grand ambitions, Davide’s heart was set on the culinary arts. His interest in cooking was deeply rooted in his innate creativity and curiosity. As a child, he loved to create, to invent and cooking felt like the perfect combination of science, chemistry, and artistry. It allowed him to express himself fully. The decision to become a chef however, was not met with unanimous support from his family. At that time and definitely within Guidara’s family, the culinary profession did not carry the prestige it does today. His uncle, a broker, made his disapproval clear during a Christmas dinner, telling Davide’s father, that ‘’the kid’’ was too smart to make this career choice. Despite the opposition, Davide pursued his dream. At the age of fourteen, he made the definitive choice to enroll in culinary school.
He attended culinary school in Castelvenere, a small village near Naples, where he lived. Culinary school marked the beginning of a rigorous and immersive journey. From the age of fourteen to eighteen, David not only honed his skills in school but also worked tirelessly on weekends in a fine-dining restaurant. Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays were spent in the kitchen, gaining practical experience. During the summers, from June to October, when school was closed, he traveled to work in different restaurants, seizing every opportunity to expand his knowledge. From the age of eighteen to twenty-five, he would change restaurant every six months. One of his most formative experiences was at Don Alfonso, a renowned establishment that left a lasting impression on him. But he also spent time in the kitchens of top restaurants such as Il Mosaico, La Terrazza, Bras, Sea Grill by Yves Mattagne and René Redzepi’s iconic Noma. After the work abroad, the chef moved back to his home country. He would work in a few restaurants there, until he took up his role in I Tenerumi in 2021. When he arrived at the property, the room in which the restaurant is now situated, was an event venue. So, the chef created the entire concept of I Tenerumi. A concept that worked well from the start, as only six months after opening, they received a first Michelin Star and also a Green Michelin Star. The kitchen team of I Tenerumi consists of six people next to Chef Davide and they are all Italian.
Gastronomy / Cooking Style
The chef’s culinary philosophy revolves around redefining how people perceive vegetables. Although nearly ninety-nine percent of the dishes are plant-based, the chef avoids labeling the cuisine as “vegan” or “vegetarian” due to the connotations these terms sometimes carry. Instead, the focus lies on crafting extraordinary culinary experiences centered around vegetables, aiming to appeal to a wide range of diners, not just those following plant-based diets. This unique approach stems from the chef’s desire to challenge the conventional notion of vegetables as bland or unexciting. In most dining scenarios, vegetables are often an afterthought, rarely the highlight of a meal. The goal of Davide is to transform them into the main attraction, creating dishes that evoke the same excitement as pizza or barbecue. The decision to embark on this journey was influenced by a combination of environmental awareness and professional ambition. After leaving behind traditional kitchens serving meat and fish, the chef saw an opportunity to rethink and redefine cuisine by focusing exclusively on vegetables. Despite skepticism from peers and industry insiders who doubted the potential of a vegetable-centric menu, the chef embraced the challenge with vigor, viewing it as a chance to revolutionize fine dining and prove detractors wrong. At the heart of this approach is technique, an essential tool for unlocking and amplifying the natural flavors of vegetables in the chef’s view. Collaborating with universities in Messina and Catania, the chef employs advanced methods to enhance the natural glutamic acids in vegetables, intensifying their umami flavor. Techniques like fermentation, oxidation, maceration, drying, and infusion are meticulously applied to create layered, complex dishes.
For instance, one dish features a labor-intensive preparation of peppers: they are peeled, coated in Celtic sea salt powder for two hours, washed, macerated for three days, dried, and finally infused in tomato water for two days before being served. Such dedication to process and detail transforms simple ingredients into extraordinary culinary creations. The techniques employed in the kitchen of Guidara are not derived from books or traditional resources. The expertise comes from experimentation, intuition, and years of practice. While numerous publications discuss vegan or vegetarian cuisines, the techniques they use are self-developed and entirely unique.
The restaurant’s menu is deeply tied to the land. Many vegetables are grown in their own garden, while others are sourced from trusted farmers in Sicily. For example, avocados and mangoes are cultivated locally in Milazzo, and mushrooms come from a dedicated Sicilian producer. While nearly all ingredients are sourced within Sicily, one exception is white asparagus, which is brought in for a specific dish. This commitment to local sourcing underscores the restaurant’s dedication to regional authenticity and sustainability.
The restaurant offers a single 21-course menu, changing with the seasons. While some plates are adjusted mid-season to reflect the availability of fresh produce, six signature dishes remain constant year-round. These include radicchio, beetroot, and a signature tomato dish, cherished by regular patrons who return annually to enjoy them. While inspiration may strike anywhere, the chef emphasizes a very technical approach. To achieve this, the chef meticulously calculates elements like sugar content to ensure that dishes maintain the same taste profile regardless of variations in raw ingredients.
Developing a new dish is a lengthy and deliberate process. Each plate undergoes extensive testing, followed by a resting period of three months to allow for a fresh perspective before final adjustments. For Davide, taste reigns supreme. He rejects unnecessary embellishments, preferring to focus on the core elements of each dish. Every element is designed to enhance the taste. This philosophy ensures that every plate is a pure and authentic expression of its ingredients. Through passion, precision, and a relentless pursuit of excellence, the restaurant has created a dining experience that is both innovative and deeply rooted in its local terroir. The result is a celebration of vegetables transformed into extraordinary culinary art.
Service & Wine
The atmosphere is relaxed and never stiff or overly formal. It is all about speed and efficiency. The chef does not like dining experiences that take too long. So the service is designed to be swift and seamless. Imagine enjoying twenty-one courses in just an hour and forty-five minutes. When serving twenty guests with twenty courses each, that is 420 dishes expertly prepared and served in just two and a half hours. That leads to a fast-paced experience, blending informality with top-tier service. We experienced the dinner seated at the chef’s counter, what makes the whole experience extra interesting. You are a part of the kitchen atmosphere and see the dishes being plated in front of your own eyes. The service team consists of five people to serve a maximum of twenty guests.
The primary pairing concept at I Tenerumi focuses on a mix of non-alcoholic and alcoholic beverages, such as kombucha and other infusions, blended harmoniously into a unique cocktail pairing. This approach differs from traditional wine pairings or a mix of wine and cocktails. Instead, they offer a curated cocktail pairing that aligns beautifully with the flavors of our cuisine. That said, they also offer an extensive wine list featuring primarily Sicilian wines, alongside a remarkable selection of natural and biodynamic options. Guests can also choose from over 1,200 labels, including sparkling wines and vintages from Italy, France, and other regions worldwide.
Why go?
A journey to the captivating island of Vulcano promises an experience like no other. As the ferry from Sicily approaches, the subtle scent of sulfur from the island’s active volcano hints at its raw, untamed beauty. Yet, it is the island’s stunning scenery that truly captivates, a beauty that becomes even more striking as you arrive at the luxurious Therasia Resort Sea & Spa. From the very first glimpse of the sea stretching to the horizon, you know that you will enjoy a unique experience. The dining experience at I Tenerumi elevates your visit even further. The innovative approach of Chef Davide Guidara to showcasing vegetables transforms every plate into a masterpiece, reshaping perceptions and delighting the palate. Whether you loved vegetables or not before your visit, you definitely will before you take the ferry back.
Practical
Ristorante I Tenerumi
Isola di Vulcano,
98050 Vulcanello ME
Italy