Malmö is Sweden’s third largest city and is situated in the south just a hop away from Copenhagen in Denmark. There the two brothers Mats and Ebbe Vollmer run a small relaxed fine dining place. It is really not that surprising to find them there. They are the fifth generation of a restaurateur family from southern Sweden and started out their career at their mother’s tavern. So for the brothers to run a modern tavern is not surprising at all, but the food being served is more of a surprise.
Both Mats and Ebbe have developed upon their heritage by working at several top restaurants such as Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, Harveys of Marco Pierre White, Jaan and Restaurant Herman. So in 2011 when the time was ripe they realised their dream and moved back home and built upon both their traditions and newly acquired skills to create a modern guesthouse.
They have realised their dreams when it comes to the interior. It is both relaxed and unpretentious and nicely carpeted so you can have a good buzz in the restaurant. The staff is friendly and relaxed dressed, but at the same time the place is sharp with minimal decorations and simple colour schemes.
They also deliver when it comes to the food. It is a mix of southern Sweden heritage and acquired skills. For example, a local rooster can be served with some Italian tuber borchii matched wonderfully with some local Jerusalem artichoke purée. As an appetiser the base can be local potatoes reinterpreted in different versions, for example as chips with smoked cheese.
The wines are mostly classical and French, but the matching is less classical with nice pairings such as foie gras with a Recioto. There is also a matching and well executed juice menu which the brothers make themselves and if possible with produce in season.
The food is simple and sharp and based on classical ingredients cooked contemporary and thankfully not too complicated. There is a good balance from natural tastes of the ingredients on the plate such as pike, oyster and horse radish which stands by itself without a lot of spices. You have a choice of either à la carte or five or eight courses menu where the latter more or less covers the whole à la carte. When the dessert comes the tavern heritage comes back in the form of inherited silverware.
The question remains, is Vollmers a modern tavern or not? In the end it really does not matter as long as they keep on having a friendly relaxed place with natural great tastes.
Written by Joakim