The über architect Norman Foster and his firm worked almost six years with the renovation of the Dolder Grand and the end result is breathtaking. 2008, when the renovation of the luxury hotel, situated just outside the city centre of Zürich, was accomplished a new fine dining settlement opened as well – The Restaurant.
On the walls of The Restaurant hangs some crazy expensive art. It is from the owner’s private collection, Restaurant Manager Didier Clauss tells us. No costs have been spared anywhere, no compromises, and the dining room of The Restaurant is of course very impressive, but a bit soulless.
Chef Fine Dining Heiko Nieder has an experienced background which clearly shows when you have one of the three menus. We recommend choosing the five or seven course menus to make sure that you will have some of the best and most innovative foie gras on the planet.
Goose liver with pear, liquorice and port clearly mark out Heiko Nieder’s intelligence and ambition, with perfect composition and texture. But it is also clear that there are still improvements to be made before the full menu is impeccable. The beef with beet roots and dried cherry offers too much of both the beet roots in two different combinations and tasteless endless chewing of the meat.
A wide and excellent selection of bread to choose from, but the waiters should know better from where the different ingredients originate and the pace of the servings should be kept more even during the evening. No sommelier on site which comes as a surprise at a venue like The Restaurant, but the Restaurant Manager Didier Clauss has impeccable wine pairings.
Heiko Nieder and Didier Clauss have worked together for years and their teamwork has resulted in one of Switzerland’s best restaurants. There are some improvements to be made, but all of them are minor so if they are taken care of then The Restaurant will have the potential of being true world class.
Written by Andy