Noor is vastly growing as one of the rising stars in de Dutch gastronomic scene. In Groningen, Marleen and Jeroen Brouwer set up camp in an old church where they spoil their guests with a holy culinary encounter with food. They can invite us to church anytime.

Location

Noor Is located in Groningen, the biggest city in the north of the Netherlands. When arriving on location we find the restaurant to be situated in a beautiful church. This old church dates back to 1927 and was designed by architect A.Th. van Elmpt (1866-1953).

The cosy church, dedicated to Theresia of Lisieux, was built for the catholic workers coming from Brabant who were working in the sugar factory in Hoogkerk. This huge factory is still visible when entering Hoogkerk and is practically across the street from the restaurant. After the desecration of the church, the building fell out of use until it found its second youth as a fine dining destination.

The church itself has been transformed with a special attention to luxury, where no detail was neglected, resulting in this one-of-a-kind restaurant. There is an open kitchen in which we enter the building. At the end of this open kitchen, a chef’s table caters up to eight people.

The main dining room is located in the old church hall and welcomes forty table-companions. One of the most amazing features is to be found in the wine department. On the old altar there is a built-in wine cellar from which the sommelier works his own magic. When an altar is dedicated to wine, you definitely know you are in the right spot. The main hall is also decorated with some stunning works of art designed by artist Eelco Hilgerom. These iconic masterpieces blend in very well with this unique location.

Noor is a powerful name that allows easy pronunciation in every language. When Marleen and Jeroen were expecting their firstborn child, they had Noor up as main choice for the maiden’s name. When their son Mees was born, this magical moment also ended the quest for a name of their new restaurant and Noor was born shortly after.

The Chef & the team

Marleen and Jeroen Brouwer are a lovely couple that encountered love in a culinary school they attended in order to epitomize their passion for gastronomy. They followed each other when they came down to the Belgian Flanders and worked together in the iconic restaurant ‘In De Wulf’ lead by the most charismatic Kobe Desramaults. After gaining some more experience in top spots, including the likes of ‘De Librije’ where Marleen bonded with Jonnie Boer, this young couple decided that was the right time for them to spread their own wings.

In 2016, they took over ‘De Loohoeve’, both restaurant and hotel located in Schoonloo, Drenthe. After gaining many honors and one Michelin Star, they decided to focus solely on their culinary ambitions. They moved up north and after the transformation of the old church, they opened restaurant Noor in 2022.

Marleen is one of two female chefs being granted a Michelin Star in the Netherlands. As a determined and strong women and mother, she fights for the recognition of female chefs in gastronomy. In 2023 she showed up in ‘Restaurant of the future’, a televised cooking contest in where she exhibited all of her gastronomic skills.

Gastronomy

The gastronomic experience at Noor is in constant evolution and undulates with the seasons. The cooking is based on the best, local produce from the Netherlands combined with both classical and progressive global cooking techniques. Very characteristic is the use of citrus, fresh and acidic tastes. The chef tries to use as many local vegetables as possible and relies on responsible suppliers for both fish and meat. We enjoyed this gastronomic experience at the chef’s table located at the end of the kitchen. It is an utterly unique encounter with the kitchen staff, as every detail can be observed from our prime seats.

The experience begins with some sophisticatedly executed and beautiful amuses.

Chicken liver – hibiscus – cherry

Parmesan – tomato – horseradish

Sea bream – yuzu kosho – cucumber

Koshihikari – furikake – red beet

‘Kitchen waste’ bouillon – vadouvan

Filet américain – piccalilli – pickled and cream of egg yolk – chives

The finely minced meat was topped by both shaved egg yolk and a cream of the egg yolk. The piccalilli adds some acidity and chives bring more freshness to this lovely dish.

 

Scallops – Jerusalem artichoke – kapiso – onion – smoked yoghurt – voatsiperifery

5 x celeriac – salted yoghurt – moroccan lemon – bay leaf oil

The celeriac dish is a real signature dish for Noor and we can totally grasp why. By rendering some cooking techniques and blending structure, Marlene formed 5 different creations out of one celeriac. A very intense job, but the result is quite wonderful.

 

White asparagus – xo – tom kha kai

Langoustine – cabbage rendang – dashi butter – spices

Grilled sea bass – spinach – broccoli – verjus caviar

Lamb – cantharelles – black garlic – onion – wild garlic

Strawberries – asparagus ice cream – chamomile – verbena

Petit fours

Service & Wine

Speaking about service, Noor holds remarkably high standards and implements them with finesse. There is a very charming yet highly professional vibe that takes this place that other level. Speaking of wine, Nick Nijkamp is the sommelier pampering his clients with a beautiful selection of handpicked creative wines suiting both classical as natural wine enthusiasts. He does so from the old altar that has been transformed into a state-of-the-art wine cellar which gives this place that extra dimension.

Why go? 

Noor is a one-of-a-kind restaurant in a one-of-a-kind setting. The serene and holy atmosphere this place radiates, blends in very well with the unique dining experience Jeroen and Marleen try to offer their guests.

The food is of a remarkably high level and will entertain every sort of food fanatic by its classic yet progressive approach. It is very subtle in every way but kicks every taste bud with high and intense flavours.

Keeping all these aspects into consideration, a visit to Noor will be a holy experience that will leave nobody untouched and a trigger to come back to this incredibly special place.