Dining in Hungary is deep with tradition both with food and wine. The food is usually more on the rustic authentic with wines being more elegant. In 2007 Onyx was opened to evolve the food to the same level as the world famous Hungarian wines.
The restaurant is situated in the centre of Budapest on the Pest side. It is adjacent to the famous Café Gerbaud, which is no coincidence since they are run by the same family. Café Gerbaud itself is worth a visit, it is a place with a lot of history.
The interior of Onyx consists of two different dining rooms. When entering the first you are greeted by a room with onyx stone decorations, thus the name of the restaurant. The interior design is modern baroque style which matches the formal and friendly service.
The kitchen is run by the chef couple Szabina Szulló and Tamás Széll, making it very unique itself. It might be the only fine dining chef couple in the world? Both are recognised Hungarian cooks and Tamás Széll placed tenth in Bocuse d’Or 2013. The cooking is a mix of international fine dining cuisine, but more interestingly they also have interpreted Hungarian dishes and flavours. So recommended is the Hungarian Evolution Tasting menu where Szabina and Tamás create modern Hungarian fine dining dishes. Examples of dishes are modern interpretations of goulash, paprika with mangalitza pork and of course variations on goose liver. Also there is a wonderful and wide selection of bread. Matching the dishes are some of the greater Hungarian wines to discover. Not only the traditional sweet Tokaj but great dry white from grapes like hárslevelű, furmint or reds like kékfrankos and kadarka.
Hungary with its unique flavours and local produce has a lot of more potential than the traditional rustic Hungarian cooking. Onyx current Hungarian Evolution meny is delicious and certainly an evolved Hungarian cuisine, but it could be more daring, maybe a revolution to go with the evolution?
Onyx is THE place to go if you want to taste modern Hungarian fine dining with great Hungarian wines. It will be interesting to follow Szabina and Tamás as they further develop the Onyx cuisine.
Written by Joakim
